Do I need to be concerned about my bird's beak and nails?
Quaker parrot with overgrown upper and lower beak.Most birds in the wild are naturally active during the day and sit on a wide variety of perches of varying diameters and textures. This variety of surfaces, along with ordinary preening and grooming behavior, wears down their nails so they do not overgrow or become misshapen.
Unfortunately, in captivity, birds typically have smooth, wooden perches that are all the same or similar diameter. This lack of perch variability often results in decreased wear of nails and, subsequently, nail overgrowth. Without routine filing or trimming, toenails may become long, very sharp, and/or flaky.
Overgrown nails may become caught or trapped on toys, clothing, or parts of the cage. In these situations, parts of the toenail may be ripped off, causing the toe to bleed, or the toe may be broken, creating a severe painful event.
The beak is a multipurpose organ used for eating, preening, grasping, climbing (like a third foot), self-defense, touching, playing, and communicating. It is capable of great strength and gentle touch. The beak is constantly growing, but in a normal, healthy bird, it tends to stay a relatively constant length, because the bird is always wearing it down at the tip as it eats, climbs, and plays. (Photo courtesy of Gregory Rich, DVM.)
"An overgrown beak is...often a sign that there is an underlying medical problem."
After a bird eats, you may see it wipe and clean its beak on an object in the cage, such as a perch. This action helps wear down the beak. A bird may also grind its upper and lower beak together, which further wears down the lower beak. Providing your bird with pet-safe toys and chewing activities will not only help wear down the beak, but also provide hours of entertainment for your pet. A truly healthy bird should rarely need their upper or lower beak trimmed.
An overgrown beak is generally not caused from lack of chewing or preening surfaces but is often a sign that there is an underlying medical problem. The most common medical issues causing beak overgrowth are: liver disease, scaley beak and leg mites (Knemidocoptes mites), fungal infection in the layers of the beak, a history of previous trauma, or cancer of the beak.
In all cases, a bird with an overgrown beak should be seen by an avian veterinarian. It is never advisable to trim your bird's beak at home, as there is a large blood vessel running down the center of the beak that will bleed profusely if it is nicked. The tip of the upper beak has a substantial nerve supply and will cause pain if it is broken or trimmed improperly. A veterinarian familiar with birds will trim or grind the beak properly during regular health examinations if they find that the upper or lower beak is elongated or misshapen. Bloodwork and/or X-rays (radiographs) may be recommended to help identify a cause of the beak overgrowth.
Can I trim my bird's nails at home?
Yes, you can trim your bird’s toenails at home, but it is important to be careful when trimming your bird’s toenails. Every toenail has a blood vessel and nerve that grows part-way down the middle of each nail, known as the quick. The longer the toenail, often the longer the quick.
In light-colored nails, the quick is visible as the pink area in the center of the nail. In dark or black nails, the quick will be barely visible or, in most cases, impossible to see. When cut, the quick may bleed profusely, and it may be difficult to stop the blood flow.
If you choose to attempt nail trims at home, it is imperative to have a clotting agent or styptic powder easily accessible. Ask your veterinarian about what clotting agents are safe for use in birds. You should wash clotting agents and styptic powder off the nails sometime after the bleeding has stopped, as birds preen their feet and ingest substances on the nails’ surface.
Toenails of small birds may be trimmed with human nail clippers. Larger birds require stronger dog nail scissors or clippers. Regardless of the instrument used, the bird should be securely and safely restrained. The nail may be trimmed a little at a time to help lessen the chance of bleeding. It takes good judgment, patience, and practice to trim nails properly.
"It takes good judgment, patience, and practice to trim nails properly."
If bleeding occurs, remain calm, restrain the bird safely and securely, and use finger pressure to pinch the toe (from side to side just before the nail). Pinching provides a tourniquet action, so you can apply a clotting agent or styptic powder to the cut end. Cornstarch or flour may be used in an emergency, but is generally not as effective as a commercially available clotting product or styptic powder.
Your avian veterinarian or the veterinary team can trim nails safely during regular health examinations and will be prepared to deal with any bleeding, should it occur. Your veterinarian may use a special instrument called a cautery pen, which has a loop on the end that becomes very hot and can cauterize (cut with heat) the very tip of the nail, beyond the quick. Cautery pens are ideal because they ensure the nail will not bleed if the quick is cut. Plus, the heat of the cautery loop keeps the instrument sterile – free of bacteria and other microbes that could be transferred from bird to bird.
Cautery pens should only be used by trained professionals, as they get extremely hot and could injure both the bird and the person trimming if the bird moves when the nail is cut. Other veterinarians may use a dremel drill - an electric grinding tool that rounds out the sharp, pointy tip of the nails of larger birds such as Amazon parrots, cockatoos, and macaws.
What else can I do at home to help the beak and nails?
Sandpaper perch covers are not recommended. They do not keep the nails short and could cause ulcers or abrasions on the undersides of the feet. Birds also tend to pick the sand off these perches and can develop gastrointestinal obstructions from the ingested sand. Non-toxic, clean branches available commercially from pet stores are acceptable perches for pet birds.
Bringing branches in from outside to be used as perches is generally not recommended, as the wood could contain microscopic bacteria, fungus, and parasites that your bird could ingest when it chews on the perch.
Perches should be of varying diameter so the bird can distribute pressure over different areas of the feet, preventing pressure sores that may develop from constant pressure on one area. Birds should be able to wrap their toes at least half way around the perch to ensure a good grip. They are less likely to slip off, startle, or fall from perches that they can grasp tightly.
Braided rope perches are a good choice and are available commercially. Care must be taken, however, to replace braided perches if they become unraveled or frayed. Birds may ingest the frayed strands or toes/feet may get tangled in the loose strands.
"Braided rope perches are a good choice and are available commercially."
Cement or ceramic perches may help wear down the beak but should not be used as the only perch, or most frequently used perch in the cage, as their rough surface may lead to development of pressure sores on the bottom of feet. Manzanita, applewood, and dragonwood perches are excellent natural, hard wood perches widely used for small, medium, and large birds. For smaller birds such as finches, budgies, lovebirds, or cockatiels, cuttle bones may be helpful as a wearing surface for the beak.
Any changes in the rate of growth, color, texture, symmetry, or shape of the beak or nails should be brought to the attention of your avian veterinarian immediately, as they could be an indication of an underlying medical problem.
