Bearded Dragons: Housing

What type of enclosure does my bearded dragon need?

There are eight species of bearded dragons, but this handout focuses on the inland or central bearded dragon (Pogona vitticeps), as it is the one most commonly kept as a pet.

The minimum enclosure size for a juvenile bearded dragon is a 20-gallon aquarium, depending on the size of the animal. As the animal grows, you should provide a 60- to 100-gallon tank or larger.

• The length of the enclosure should be at least three times the lizard’s total body length, and its width should be at least 16 inches (41 cm) so it can turn around with ease. 
• The enclosure should be well ventilated with a secure, protective top to keep your bearded dragon in and other animals out. 
• Provide enough space for exercise, furnishings, and separate warmer and cooler areas.

A bearded dragon is usually best housed alone. A bearded dragon is usually best housed alone. Dragons kept together may compete for food or basking space and may fight, even if they have previously appeared to get along. Adult males may have territorial fights, and females may also become aggressive. A larger dragon may overpower or injure a smaller one. Ask your veterinarian before housing dragons together. 

Dragons kept together may compete for food or basking space and may fight, even if they have previously appeared to get along. Monitor any newly introduced dragons carefully, and ensure any newly introduced bearded dragons are roughly the same size to prevent the larger dragon from overpowering or harming the smaller dragon.

What temperature does my bearded dragon need?

Reptiles are ectotherms, which means they depend on heat from their environment to regulate their body temperature. Environmental temperature affects the bearded dragon’s activity level, metabolism, and digestion. If they become too cold, these processes slow down, and their immune system may not work as well, increasing their risk of infection.

Your bearded dragon needs a heat source and a temperature gradient: a warmer area at one end of the enclosure and a cooler area at the other. This allows them to move between areas to warm or cool themselves as needed. 

The cooler end of the enclosure should be approximately 75ºF to 80ºF (24ºC to 27ºC), while the warmer end should be 90ºF to 100ºF (32ºC to 38ºC). Place one thermometer at the cooler end and another at the warmer end, near the heat source. An infrared temperature gun can measure surface temperatures, such as the basking surface, but does not replace an air thermometer.

At night, turn off lights and allow the enclosure temperature to drop. Extra heat may not be necessary if the cooler end of the enclosure remains between 65ºF and 80ºF (18ºC and 27ºC). If your bearded dragon becomes unusually inactive or stops eating, contact your veterinarian rather than assuming they are undergoing brumation, a period of reduced activity during cooler months. In the wild, bearded dragons often brumate when temperatures drop below 50ºF (10ºC) over a period of weeks to months.

How should I heat the enclosure?

Several types of appropriate heat sources are available, including basking bulbs and ceramic heat emitters. Choose equipment suited to the enclosure rather than relying on a fixed bulb wattage. Some bulbs provide both heat and UVB light, but a heat bulb does not necessarily provide UVB.

Heat sources should be positioned outside and above the basking end of the enclosure so your dragon cannot touch them or get close enough to be burned. Follow the equipment manufacturer’s installation instructions and check temperatures after setting up or changing the equipment.

A heating pad designed for reptile enclosures may provide additional warmth when placed under one end of the enclosure. Ideally, these heating pads should be plugged into special thermostats that automatically turn on and off when reaching pre-set temperatures. Thermostats ensure that the heating pad does not get too hot and burn the lizard or damage the tank. Do not use “hot rocks” or “sizzle rocks.” They can become dangerously hot and burn your dragon. 

What lighting does my bearded dragon need?

Bearded dragons need ultraviolet B (UVB) light to help their skin produce vitamin D3. This vitamin allows their body to absorb calcium from food. Failure to provide adequate UVB light can predispose your pet to metabolic bone disease (nutritional secondary hyperparathyroidism), a common condition of pet reptiles. This condition weakens the bones and can be life-threatening if it is not recognized and treated.

Choose a UVB bulb designed for reptiles. UVA light can influence behavior, but it does not replace the UVB needed to produce vitamin D3. A bulb labeled “full spectrum” does not necessarily provide adequate UVB. For UV light to work, it must reach the pet without glass or plastic between the bulb and the animal. Screening can also reduce UVB exposure. 

The light must be within about 6 to 18 inches of your pet to provide optimum benefit. The correct bulb and distance depend on the bulb’s output and the enclosure setup. Follow the manufacturer’s guidance and ask a veterinarian familiar with reptiles to review the installation. 

Provide hiding places or shaded areas where your dragon can move away from the light. The UV output of these lights decreases with age, so they should be replaced every six months or as directed by the manufacturer, even if they still produce visible light.

What substrate should I use?

Substrate, or the material covering the enclosure floor, should be easy to clean and appropriate for your bearded dragon. Even non-toxic materials may cause a blockage if swallowed. Newspaper, butcher paper, or other recycled paper products are easy-to-replace options. Artificial grass made specifically for reptiles, often called reptile carpet, may also be used. If you use it, keep two pieces cut to fit the enclosure so you can easily replace a soiled piece with a clean, dry one. 

Avoid sand, gravel, wood shavings, walnut shells, corncob material, cat litter, and other substrates that could cause an intestinal blockage if swallowed. Even so-called digestible “calcium sand” may cause a blockage when ingested and should be avoided. Cedarwood shavings should never be used because their oils can be harmful to reptiles.

Bearded dragons may swallow loose substrate while catching insects or eating greens. Ask your veterinarian which substrate is appropriate for your dragon and how to reduce the risk of ingestion.

What else does my bearded dragon need in the enclosure?

Places to bask and climb. Large rocks that are easy enough to climb on and around allow for basking and provide a more interesting, natural environment. Bearded dragons may enjoy low, horizontal, natural branches to climb on as well. Make sure all branches and rocks are secure and will not fall onto the lizard and injure it.

A place to hide. Artificial plants or live non-toxic plants can be arranged to provide a hiding place. You can create a secure hiding area for your bearded dragon with a clay pot, a cardboard box, a large piece of commercially purchased bark or a half-domed hollow log, a commercial pet cave, or an inverted plastic food storage container with a suitable entrance.

Food and water dishes. Fresh water should always be available in a sturdy dish that will not easily tip over. Food should be provided in a similar shallow, clean dish that is not easily moved.

Can my bearded dragon spend time outdoors?

Direct sunlight in warm weather is recommended whenever possible. Sunlight through window glass does not provide the same exposure. If you take your bearded dragon outdoors, make sure you provide a shaded area where they can move out of direct sunlight. Always supervise your pet to prevent escape or injury from other animals.

How should I clean the enclosure and supplies?

Regular cleaning helps keep your dragon’s environment healthy.

• Remove feces, soiled substrate, and uneaten food daily. 
• Replace paper substrate completely at least once a week, or sooner if it becomes soiled.
• Remove soiled reptile carpet and replace it with a clean, dry piece. Wash the soiled piece thoroughly with dishwashing detergent, rinse well, and let it dry completely before reusing. Wash carpet at least weekly.
• Keep the enclosure and cleaning equipment away from areas where human food is prepared, stored, or eaten. Do not clean reptile supplies in the kitchen sink.

Always wash your hands thoroughly with soap and water after handling your bearded dragon, feeding them, or cleaning their enclosure and supplies. Bearded dragons can carry Salmonella and other germs even when they appear healthy. Consult a veterinarian familiar with reptiles if you have any other questions or concerns regarding the proper lighting or housing for your bearded dragon.